Pomona College Magazine
Volume 41. No. 2.
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Editor: Mark Wood
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Food of the Dogs

My dog dines on duck and potatoes, twice a day, seven days a week. Not much in the way of variety, but he doesn’t seem to mind. As I tell my wife (using one of those special voices we all use when speaking on behalf of our pets), he’s just a duck-and-potatoes kind of a guy.

Scotty is a cross between a pure-blood sheltie and a Southern gentleman—a trusting soul who is courteous even to cats. Unfortunately, he’s also getting old even faster than I am. His pupils are cloudy when he stares up into the light, and that once regal coat of his has gotten sort of scruffy. His digestion isn’t what it once was, either—hence the slightly exotic diet.

But the truth is, Scotty was never an Alpo dog. One reason, I suppose, is the fact that my wife and I are compulsive label readers, and the lists of ingredients on most dog food labels don’t really sound—well—edible. In some cases, my mind refuses even to go there. For instance, I know what beef tallow is, and fish meal, but what is hydrolyzed chicken protein? Likewise, I have a reasonably good notion of poultry byproducts, but what about meal of poultry byproducts? Or digest of poultry byproducts and beef?

Sometimes I think that the usual brands of commercial dog food must be the down-and-dirty quintessence of processed food—processed food as it would be if there were no labels and no FDA. Basically, it’s the leavings and nail-parings of our food industry, fortified with vitamins and rendered down into something resembling paté or croutons. A sort of doggy Soylent Green.

Like most people who identify with their pets, I can’t help imagining what it would be like to eat the stuff myself, which is probably why I fork over a bit more for something slightly less objectionable. But also like most people, I shudder at the thought of giving it the old taste test.

 I’m reminded of the stories I’ve heard over the years of old people in poverty forced to live on dogfood. Why do those stories—maybe apocryphal, but deeply affecting in any case—fill us with such shame and disgust? It’s not a question of nutrition, is it? Poultry byproducts may not be appetizing, but they won’t kill you, and protein is protein. No, mostly it’s symbolism. This is the demeaning, dehumanizing facet of poverty. After all, you are what you eat, so what does a diet of Ken-L-Ration reduce you to?

I’m also reminded of a recent L.A. news item in which a group of firefighters conspired to feed dogfood-laced spaghetti to a colleague—reportedly as a prank, in response to his tendency to refer to himself as “the Big Dog”— leading to a lawsuit for racial harassment and an abortive settlement. Can a bite of Alpo really be worth $2.7 million?

As a counterpoint to that news item, I recall the simple, straightforward attitude of an old hunter I once knew who asserted that he never fed his hunting dogs anything he hadn’t tasted and approved first. He found nothing demeaning about sampling something designed for dogs, maybe because he had such a healthy respect for them and no illusions about what it means to be human rather than canine.
—Mark Wood
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by Pomona College
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