Pomona College Magazine
Volume 41. No. 2.
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How to Buy Quality Clothes
Expert Advice/ Dru Hilty ’02

Residing in New York, Dru Hilty ’02 is settling into her latest appointment as associate designer for Alexander Wang. She draws upon her work for AsFour’s Kai Kuhne, Ann Taylor, Phi, Moschino and Barbara Tfank to offer some spot-on apparel advice.

“Before I entered design, I really had no idea what to look for when shopping for something nice, except maybe brand or price,” says Hilty. “Shopping now is like treasure hunting. I’m sure I look like a dorky scientist examining a fossil or something.”

To buy high-quality garments, she says, look for three things:

Quality of Design

There are aspects of design which are worth paying more for. Bias-cut skirts or dresses use fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to create stretch over curves and a superior fit. Sleeves with a panel on the underside of the arm (called a two-piece sleeve) also provide a better fit. Look for pieces with lining, which add to durability and comfort. If the fabric has a print, make sure it matches in noticeable places. Don’t just try clothes on—walk, sit, bend in them.

Quality of Workmanship

Learn to inspect the inside and out of a garment before you buy. A serged or Merrow-ed seam (like the inside of a T-shirt) is a cheap method of finishing. Seams bound with bias tape, French seams or flat-felled seams (the side of your jeans) will last longer. If the fabric has beads or sequins, make sure they’re securely attached. Check the grain of the fabric—the vertical grain should run straight up and down. Inspect each seam to make sure stitches are secure and straight. Examine hems—they should be nearly invisible, never done with a straight stitch and should never pucker. Hold up clothing to make sure the lining falls smoothly and does not extend below the hemline.

Quality of Materials

If the materials are junky, the garment will not look good in the long run. No plastic buttons—look for mother of pearl, horn, stone, leather, metal or fabric. For fiber and fabric, natural is better than manmade. Wool, cotton, linen or silk breathe easier and are nicer against the skin. Check the care label to see if you are willing to maintain it properly. Lastly, squeeze a handful of fabric to see its wrinkle reaction. When buying sweaters, cashmere is the best, but I may be biased since I work for Alexander Wang.

Hilty’s Best Tip

If you’re flat broke, skip shopping for a few months. How you wear what you wear is nine-tenths of great style. In the end, even designer Kenneth Cole says, “To be aware is more important than what you wear.” Happy shopping!
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