Pomona College Magazine
Volume 41. No. 2.
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  Quick bites
News and tidbits from Sagehen foodies
across the nation, in no particular order



Business Is Hopping


Curtis Dale ’80 left his job three years ago to open Dale Bros. Brewery, eagerly entering his creations in the L.A. County Fair. But his initial hopes turned out to be so much foam.

“There were all these black marks against my beers,” Dale remembers. “Too dark, too hoppy, too this, too that, not enough carbonation.” However, one judge wrote a comment that stood out from the rest and inspired Dale: “This is a beer I could drink all day.”

Since then, Dale has won multiple awards. He brews four beers from his brewery in Upland: Pomona Queen, California Black Beer, Pacific Daylight and Winter Haze, all sold at local eateries, including Claremont’s The Press. For the upcoming year, he has big changes in store, including a move to downtown Claremont.



The Tangerine Man


Would you pay twice as much for something half its usual size? Jim Churchill ’68
hopes so: He grows pricey pixie tangerines, intensely sweet golf ball-sized fruit with a sand trap’s worth of marketing challenges.

In 1978, he went to run his father’s Churchill Orchard after a series of post-college careers. He transitioned the avocado crop to pixies several years later. “I didn’t think about how they were small and not the prettiest fruit,” Churchill recalls. To sell the fruit, he would stack cartons of pixies in the trunk of his 1967 Volvo wagon and drive all over Los Angeles in search of buyers.

 The pixies went high profile after Bill Fujimoto of the Monterey Market in Berkeley helped get the tangerines into Chez Panisse, the famous Bay Area restaurant. Now Churchill has further plans to grow the market for this tiny fruit, as he takes pixie tangerines from citrus misfit to must-taste delicacy.




Living Gluten Free


What do you eat when you have a gluten allergy? No wheat, rye, barley or oats—that means no pizza or pasta, not even Thanksgiving stuffing. Enter Ruth Stadler ’81, personal chef. Or as she puts it, “I’m more of a practical chef. I cook to help people.”

Self-taught, Stadler has spent years reconstructing pizza crusts, lasagna noodles, even overhauling Thanksgiving dinner. Her kitchen doubles as an epicurean lab, where she modifies recipes and experiments with ingredients like rice flour and soy products.

In the world of the gluten-free, Stadler practices what she preaches—she’s had a vested interest in making tasty substitutes since being diagnosed with a gluten allergy of her own in 2001. In her personal and professional cooking, her proudest accomplishment has simply been eating normally again, and enabling others to do the same:

“When you’re gluten intolerant, you don’t get decent bread products, you don’t get anything crunchy. I can help change that.”



Breakfast and Bed


When on vacation, some people like to sleep in late. But at The Bronze Antler, a B&B in Joseph, Heather Tyreman ’80 and her husband, Bill Finney, cook up breakfasts that would lure even Rip Van Winkle from slumber. Try not to drool as Tyreman describes one of Finney’s creations: “An egg soufflé with spinach cream sauce, stuffed with smoked gouda and Italian sausage, and served with oven-roasted potatoes with tarragon and sea salt and tomatoes with vinegar and herbes de Provence.”

 Tyreman’s culinary contribution is a bottomless cookie jar. Her treats, like cookies spiced with candied ginger, coriander and black pepper, complement guests’ afternoon sightseeing and evening relaxation. Surprisingly, before Tyreman and Finney retired from the military and opened The Bronze Antler six years ago, neither one had any formal food training.



Coffee Linguistics

The key to ordering like a pro at Starbucks, says Justin Wright ’99 of Woodinville, who works as a part-time barista while pursuing a second degree in computer science at the University of Washington: state the size and then the type of drink. A “grande mocha” is a simple favorite. For more complicated concoctions, he suggested following the subsequent steps: size, iced/not, decaffeinated/not, shot count, flavoring, milk type, miscellaneous and, finally, the drink name. “We have a regular customer at our store whose drink is notoriously long,” Forward says. “In fact, she had us write the drink on a cup sleeve that she brings in each day to avoid having to repeat the order each time she comes in and confuse the newer baristas.” What is this customer’s drink of choice? A “venti 8-pump chai, soy, no water, extra hot, no foam, chai tea latte.”

 Now say that three times quickly.



A Sweet Sinecure

 Ariana Schuster ’05 landed a sweet job right out of college. She sculpts, ices, assembles— everything but bakes—at Cheryl Kleinman Cakes, one of the Big Apple’s fanciest bakeries, with creations that appear in bridal magazines and are sought-after by celebs. She helped with a topographically correct cake shaped like the island of Capri, complete with a piazza and harbor filled with little boats. Another— for Jerry Seinfeld’s wife, Jessica—required her to sculpt a sugar-paste pilates machine.

 “I snack, definitely,” Schuster confesses, “but I work it all off in the kneading.”



Pasha's Pleases Palates


Nicolas Cortes ’91, who names being “trained to be analytic and skeptical about the data you see” among the most important skills he gained at Pomona, puts these abilities to use when creating a rich menu of Mediterranean cuisine that leaves customers satisfied.

Attuned to his customers’ purchasing patterns, Cortes, co-founder of a Miami restaurant called Pasha’s, monitors the performance of menu items. “There are more products from the Eastern Mediterranean region than we can serve in our restaurants, so there is a long chain of potential products,” says the president and chief financial officer. While the gyro has been a mainstay since the restaurant’s inception, for instance, a Mediterranean cheese spread called shanklish that tested well in focus groups did not have a large-scale appeal and was quickly removed from the menu, he says.

Cortes and his associates always have particular dishes in mind that they consider the “best in their category,” which specially trained staff first try to produce on a small scale with all of the “nuances of home style” Eastern European cuisine and then try to replicate on a large scale while maintaining high quality. Only if met with approval at each of these levels of testing will well-received items get added to the menu, ensuring customers an experience in which they will be “treated like pashas”—the noble lords of the Ottoman empire, living a good life and enjoying good food at four locations throughout Miami.



The Candy Man


John Brooks ’61 left Pomona with a degree in zoology, which led him to a graduate degree in biology, which led him, naturally, to … candy?

Rather than rushing into a doctoral program, Brooks decided to take time off and “to go drive a truck or something” for Adams and Brooks, the Los Angeles confectionery firm his father started in 1932. “I found I could contribute a lot more than I thought,” he says. “That’s how I got stuck here, and it has been wonderful.”

Now in his 32nd year as president of Adams and Brooks, he continues doing what he does best: building brands like their famous specialty lollipops—those bright discs of whorled colors in all shapes and sizes, carried by Disney theme parks all over the world—Coffee Rio hard candies, P-Nuttles candy nuts and Cup-O-Gold chocolate bars, among others.
It’s a never-ending battle for shelf-space competing against the big brands, but he is getting plenty of help from family: his wife, Tempe Brooks ’63, and their children work in the business, carrying on a sweet tradition.



Sunset
Draws Sagehens


Menlo Park, Calif.—The monthly food, travel and garden magazine Sunset has been home to many Sagehens—from dishwasher to owners.

Brothers L.W. “Bill” Lane Jr. ’42 and Mel Lane ’44 joined the workforce at Sunset, which their father Laurence owned, after graduating from Stanford University. They had sold the magazine door-to-door as preteens but assumed operating management of the magazine in 1952. They ran Sunset until 1990.

Dorothy “Dottie” Decker ’51 only spent one day washing dishes at Sunset, when her superiors learned she could cook. She has been a recipe tester at the magazine for more than 25 years.

Alicia Metcalf Miller ’61 worked there as an advertising and promotions writer.
The latest Pomona alum to join the crew: Food Editor Margo True ’86. After serving as the executive editor of Saveur magazine, True joined the team in early 2006.




Per the Bride’s Request

Even the old-fashioned Fall Creek Bakery, cozily situated in the 6,000-population town of Branson, MO, has been touched by the unlimited possibilities of the Internet as wide-eyed brides arrive requesting replicas of elaborate wedding cakes found online.

A bride-to-be, inspired by her discoveries on the Internet, approached co-owners Linda Lewis ’70 and longtime friend Marvin Patterson bearing a photograph of a three-tiered chocolate truffle wedding cake surrounded by five smaller cakes, each topped with a circular plate of chocolate overlapping its cake by one inch and adorned with 518 truffles.

After providing the future-bride with a price estimate, Lewis assumed she had decided against the cake when she didn’t hear back from the bride. Three months later, the bride returned to the bakery, proposing: “We’ll do the truffles. You do the cake.”

Lewis set to work preparing the chocolate-laden collection of cakes, dutifully fulfilling the bride’s request. Although Lewis does not fully understand the logic of ordering a cake that must be dissembled in order to be served—the chocolate plates could not be sliced—she notes that this wedding cake, like all wedding cakes, was special because once the “intense desire for perfection” pressures are off, knowing that she has played a role in making someone’s wedding day brings her joy.



Service with a Smile

Steve Kagan ’89 has been in hospitality for 15 years, selling seafood for Boston-based Stavis Seafoods Inc., but it was in his part-time job as a food server at Fenway Park during the 2004 World Series that he most clearly demonstrated the importance of flexibility in the service business:

“My assignment for game one was the seats behind home plate, including the Red Sox general manager. Theo Epstein is a man of routine. I served him 10 times that season, and he ordered only hot chocolate. Hot summer day, blustery fall day or frosty October night. Hot chocolate for him and assistants. As I made my rounds that night, I decided I could make one guest’s life nicer by bringing him his favorite hot chocolate before he could ask. As I reached the general manager’s row, I could see the delight in his face. I brought nine hot chocolates and started to hand them out. As I finished, a woman touched me on the arm, and asked me if I could bring her some hot chocolate as well. I was about to spout the company policy that we cannot serve outside of designated areas when I noticed her name badge. As I let Ms. (Wendy) Selig-Prieb, the owner of the Milwaukee Brewers, finish her question, I quickly changed my tune, and told her that I would be honored.”



The Amazing Cranberry


Amy Howell ’82 is always looking for recipes incorporating cranberries. Since discovering how they help prevent urinary tract infections in 1998, she and her colleagues at the Rutgers Blueberry and Cranberry Research Center are plagued with an endless free supply of juice and fruit.

Howell began researching cranberries in 1993, when she joined Director Nicholi Vorsa’s project looking for the berry’s unique attribute that prevents UTIs. After five years, Howell determined that the condensed tannins in cranberries held the answer. Specifically, the unique molecular structure of the tannins wards off the unwanted infections by preventing E. coli bacteria from attaching to the wall of the urinary tract.

 Howell attributes her success partly to her studies at Pomona. As a philosophy major, she learned that problems could not always be solved in conventional ways. “Everyone else [who tackled the cranberry conundrum] had a narrow perspective on this issue,” Howell says. “To solve something like that, you have to have an open mind.”

From Amy Howell ’82
Amy’s Cranberry Pie
(inspired by fellow Sagehen Caitlin Horowitz ’86)

 1 pie shell and top crust
 1 egg
 2 tablespoons sugar
 2 tablespoons butter

Pie filling: 1 pound roughly chopped cranberries (fresh or frozen)
¾ cup sugar
 ½ cup golden raisins
 2 tablespoons orange juice
1 tablespoon grated orange rind
 ½ teaspoon cinnamon
 ¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cup chopped walnuts or pecans
 2 tablespoons corn starch

Combine ingredients for pie filling. Pour in pie shell and dot with 2 Tbs butter (chopped up and distributed evenly over pie filling). Lay top pie crust on, crimp edges and brush top with egg/sugar mixture (beat 1 egg with 2 Tbs sugar). Bake at 450° for 15 minutes. Turn down oven to 350° and continue baking 45 minutes. Serve with vanilla ice cream. Enjoy!
©Copyright 2007
by Pomona College
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